If all goes well, most Everest climbers are done with the mountain and on their way home by the beginning of June. As of the end of the season, the Himalayan Database reports that people are known to have died climbing Everest, while there have been 9, successful summit climbs by 5, people.
The overall death rate—the number of fatalities divided by the overall number of people on the mountain, not just those who summit—is approximately 1. But the deaths drastically declined from to with 7, summits and deaths, or 1. The actual summit of the mountain is a small dome of snow about the size of a dining room table. The last new route to be climbed on the mountain was accomplished by a team of hearty Russians in How one chooses to climb it is as much a reflection of creativity as skill.
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Teams also have to wait for the Icefall to be 'fixed' by the Sherpa teams whose job it is to put in the ladders and fixed lines. This can again take days. The next month will be spent making a number of exploratory climbs to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall, and then to Camp 2, where it is important to spend several nights.
Weather and adaptation to the altitude will determine the exact days when the team climbs and rests. Carries of personal gear can be made while the Sherpas are putting in all the main equipment up to the high camps. During this time we also acclimatise by climbing another peak in the locality, such as Lobuche East or Island Peak. There is at least one visit to Camp 3 for an overnight. It will be a good chance to test the body's response to very high altitude.
For most people Camp 3 is the highest point they will reach without the use of bottled oxygen although some people opt to buy extra bottles to help getting to this point.
After visiting Camp 3, there is generally a rest at Base Camp or lower, in preparation for the summit bid. We often go down to Deboche to see some grass and eat good food.
Once the decision has been made to attempt a summit in a period sometime around the middle two weeks of May statistically this is fairly normal, but people have summited before and after , then the total summit cycle from base to summit and back is normally seven days which allows for a few nights at Camp 2 and then one night at Camp 3.
The ascent to Camp 4 on the south col of Everest becomes part of the summit ascent itself, since normally teams arrive mid-afternoon and rest until about 9pm when fresh oxygen bottles are used to go up to the Balcony and join the south east ridge.
The summit morning can be beset with problems of overcrowding, in particular on the rocky step below the South Summit. Generally group order is determined by mutual agreement amongst the company guides but this is not always workable.
It is not uncommon to find yourself moving very slowly behind a large group or a slow individual with no possibility to overtake. This leads to cold and excessive use of resources like oxygen. At the Balcony there is generally a change of bottles which gives an opportunity for a change in group order. From the Balcony to the South Summit there is not much opportunity to overtake, although some groups will set up their own fixed lines to one side of the main one.
It can be confusing and frustrating. Experience and a steady hand here will be very important. By sunrise we would want to be at or below the South Summit, with another two hours in hand to reach the top.
The route to the Hillary Step is narrow and exhilarating, and inevitably on a good weather day there will be a queue at the bottom of the step, and here there is no choice but to wait. The Step could be rocky or covered in snow, and it normally takes only about twenty minutes to negotiate.
From there the final two hundred metres to the summit are an easy walk. The aim is to arrive mid morning leaving the whole of the rest of the day to descend back to Camp 4 and rest. Some strong teams wish to get down to Camp 3 but this is not acceptable if it leaves the Sherpas left high with a huge amount of work to do. A few days spent back at base camp helping to clear the camp is followed by a trek back to Lukla and a flight to Kathmandu. Some people choose to charter a helicopter, which is fine but we do feel that it is important to help the Sherpas clear the mountain and not just leave.
Common courtesy and respect would suggest that everyone chips in with the break up of camp, it is far more enjoyable and should be seen as part of the trip and the experience. It takes a long time to process and assimilate an experience like this, there's really no need to rush straight to Kathmandu.
Note: the figure above does include the internal flight to Lukla but we ask that this payment is made separately to Adventure Alternative Nepal. It is a requirement of the permit for all members to have adequate insurance to cover all eventualities up to the summit of Mount Everest.
Note that there are no official rescue operations above base camp. Adventure Alternative Nepal is the company we have set up and invested in over the years, and there is a full complement of staff and equipment available for all major expeditions. A full detailed kit list will be issued to expedition members with suggestions on current manufacturers and models where required.
Hands Windstopper gloves and fleece gloves Mitts Down mitts - heavyweight and lightweight Liner gloves. Base Layer Thermals tops and bottoms, thin and thick Mid layer Fleece bottoms Fleece tops Gilet or light down jacket Hiking clothes Outer layer Windsuit Down jacket - heavy duty Down trousers or complete downsuit Windproof trousers and jacket, or salopettes.
Climbing Ice Axe Harness 'Cows tail' with jumar and safety karabiner Descender figure of 8 easiest Selection screwgate karabiners Selection long and short slings Spares.
The first recorded attempt to climb Everest was made in by a British expedition that trekked difficult miles across the Tibetan plateau to the foot of the great mountain. A raging storm forced them to abort their ascent, but the mountaineers, among them George Leigh Mallory, had seen what appeared to be a feasible route up the peak. A second British expedition, featuring Mallory, returned in , and climbers George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce reached an impressive height of more than 27, feet.
In another attempt made by Mallory that year, seven Sherpa porters were killed in an avalanche. The Sherpas, native to the Khumbu region, have long played an essential support role in Himalayan climbs and treks because of their strength and ability to endure the high altitudes.
In , a third Everest expedition was launched by the British, and climber Edward Norton reached an elevation of 28, feet, vertical feet short of the summit, without using artificial oxygen. Four days later, Mallory and Andrew Irvine launched a summit assault and were never seen alive again. Whether or not he or Irvine reached the summit remains a mystery. In , Nepal opened its door to the outside world, and in and British expeditions made exploratory climbs up the Southeast Ridge route.
In , a Swiss expedition navigated the treacherous Khumbu Icefall in the first real summit attempt. Two climbers, Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgay, reached 28, feet, just below the South Summit, but had to turn back for want of supplies.
Shocked by the near-success of the Swiss expedition, a large British expedition was organized for under the command of Colonel John Hunt. In addition to the best British climbers and such highly experienced Sherpas as Tenzing Norgay, the expedition enlisted talent from the British Commonwealth, such as New Zealanders George Lowe and Edmund Hillary, the latter of whom worked as a beekeeper when not climbing mountains. Members of the expedition were equipped with specially insulated boots and clothing, portable radio equipment, and open- and closed-circuit oxygen systems.
Setting up a series of camps, the expedition pushed its way up the mountain in April and May A new passage was forged through the Khumbu Icefall, and the climbers made their way up the Western Cwm, across the Lhotse Face, and to the South Col, at about 26, feet. On May 26, Charles Evans and Tom Bourdillon launched the first assault on the summit and came within feet of the top of Everest before having to turn back because one of their oxygen sets was malfunctioning.
On May 28, Tenzing and Hillary set out, setting up high camp at 27, feet.
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